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Retreat Diaries · Iceland

Fire + Ice-land

Chasing the northern lights across North Iceland, and finding so much more.

By Shelley Carroll6 min readUpdated October 2026

What could be more yogic than a whole country built on opposites?

In yoga we look for both sthira and sukha, steadiness and ease, in every pose. Iceland balances a cold climate with the heat of living on active volcanoes. The land of fire and ice was the perfect place for a yoga retreat.

We went in November 2021 in search of the northern lights. We found her, more than once. And we found so much more: magic, laughter (on a Will Ferrell level), connection, friendship, resilience and some excellent Eurovision impressions.

01

Starting in Reykjavík

Most of us started in the capital to get our bearings and begin a love affair with Icelandic Christmas ales.

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We discovered the magic of Icelandic tasting menus, then headed north to Akureyri, where most of the retreat took place, with a local wellness guide leading us across the north.

02

The wild north

Volcanic landscapes, steaming hot pools and roads that feel like the edge of the world.

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  • Húsavík. Whale-watching capital and the GeoSea sea baths.
  • Akureyri. The cozy “capital of the north.”
  • Hot pools at the end of every cold day. Non-negotiable.
Waterfall of the Gods

The legend of Goðafoss

When Iceland was settled in the 9th and 10th centuries, most people followed the Old Norse religion, worshipping Thor, Odin, Loki and Freya. After the Commonwealth was established in 930 AD, pressure to convert pushed in from Christianizing Europe.

By 1000 AD, Norway looked ready to invade if Iceland held to its pagan beliefs. The decision fell to the priest Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði. Legend says he lay under a fur blanket for a day and a night in silence, praying to the Old Gods. He emerged and declared that, for the good of the people, Christianity would be the official religion, while pagans could still practice in private.

To mark his decision, he returned home to north Iceland and threw his idols of the Old Gods into a beautiful waterfall. Ever since, it’s been known as Goðafoss.

The aurora + the crew

Chasing her across the north

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Where we’re headed next

Itching to go sooner? Here’s where we’re traveling in the meantime.

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Fire +Ice-land
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